We have done the work for you!
Below is every good piece of information we could find online to help drivers out there "hold a line", or just get a little faster!
Keep in mind most of us (TIL) do not use setups at most tracks. We also believe the best way to learn or improve is by running with no setup so you can get use to the track first.
Then after you are comfortable at that track some adjustments can help you get a little faster, but remember faster is normally looser and any adjustment will affect your car differently according to the "Event Style".
Keep in mind most of us (TIL) do not use setups at most tracks. We also believe the best way to learn or improve is by running with no setup so you can get use to the track first.
Then after you are comfortable at that track some adjustments can help you get a little faster, but remember faster is normally looser and any adjustment will affect your car differently according to the "Event Style".
NTG:IL Guides - Tuning Guide
What is the fundamental way to get a car to go faster?
Here is Richard Towler's guide to tuning your car to incease preformance.
Want to make your car go faster? Well the first step to concider is freeing up the rear of the car. This is the easier way of achieving a faster car. The most effective way to make the rear end of the car turn more is to use the rear springs. By increasing the difference in spring rate between the left rear and right rear spring, this will increases the amount the car turns through a corner. For example, running 300lbs and 600lbs springs the car will have lots of grip but the car won't be turning through the corner meaning you won't be able to carry the corner speed you want.
Increasing the difference between these springs has the effect of increasing the turning ability of the car, as an example changing to 250lbs on the left rear spring and 750lbs on the right rear spring the car will be able to carry more speed through a corner. The downside of this is the car will become more difficult to drive and if you increase the split too much you risk burning the right rear tyre on the longer fuel runs.
Another aspect of the car to modify is the anti roll bars. A large front roll bar increases understeer while a large roll bar on the rear increases oversteer. Depending on your driving style the effectiveness of the roll bars will differ. If you can cope with oversteer then apply a large front anti and then adjust the rear anti roll bar until you feel comfortable.
To increase the cornering ability of the car adjust the track bar, this affects the roll centre of the rear axle and when increased the rear of the car will start to oversteer more. The effect on performance isn't as much as changing the rear springs or the anti roll bars but the effect on how loose the car feels through a corner is much greater with this adjustment. You have to consider the long run pace for this adjustment too, what might feel great on fresh tires, can soon turn to uncontrollable oversteer on older tires resulting in an unwanted meeting with the wall, so be careful when making adjusts here.
Here is Richard Towler's guide to tuning your car to incease preformance.
Want to make your car go faster? Well the first step to concider is freeing up the rear of the car. This is the easier way of achieving a faster car. The most effective way to make the rear end of the car turn more is to use the rear springs. By increasing the difference in spring rate between the left rear and right rear spring, this will increases the amount the car turns through a corner. For example, running 300lbs and 600lbs springs the car will have lots of grip but the car won't be turning through the corner meaning you won't be able to carry the corner speed you want.
Increasing the difference between these springs has the effect of increasing the turning ability of the car, as an example changing to 250lbs on the left rear spring and 750lbs on the right rear spring the car will be able to carry more speed through a corner. The downside of this is the car will become more difficult to drive and if you increase the split too much you risk burning the right rear tyre on the longer fuel runs.
Another aspect of the car to modify is the anti roll bars. A large front roll bar increases understeer while a large roll bar on the rear increases oversteer. Depending on your driving style the effectiveness of the roll bars will differ. If you can cope with oversteer then apply a large front anti and then adjust the rear anti roll bar until you feel comfortable.
To increase the cornering ability of the car adjust the track bar, this affects the roll centre of the rear axle and when increased the rear of the car will start to oversteer more. The effect on performance isn't as much as changing the rear springs or the anti roll bars but the effect on how loose the car feels through a corner is much greater with this adjustment. You have to consider the long run pace for this adjustment too, what might feel great on fresh tires, can soon turn to uncontrollable oversteer on older tires resulting in an unwanted meeting with the wall, so be careful when making adjusts here.
Tire Wear
One question that comes up time and time again in Stock Car racing is 'How do you save your tires over a long run?” Since we have developed a new and improved tire model for NASCAR The Game: Inside Line, this question is now more popular than ever. Now the answer isn't always simple, as tire wear is caused by a multitude of factors, the main one being of course, the driver.
Richard Towler: The first advice I always give is don't be greedy, treat your tires like a limited resource. If you drive hard for the first 5 laps you won't have any tire left when you do need them later in a run. Of course if you only have a 5 lap run to the end of the race, just put your foot down and hold on tight!
The easiest and most simple way to save tires is to drive slower, lift off a little earlier into the corner, wait a little longer before hitting the throttle and just drive a bit smoother. Now you may be think it's a race why go slower? It's not just about maintaining a one lap speed, you have to think of each stint as a time trial. The first lap you run is just as important as the lap you run on lap 30. The best way to practice this is to work on a 10 lap average using the in game session stats, keep going back to try and improve your average rather than single lap pace.
Let's take these two, 10 lap, runs from Atlanta, the most extreme case of tire wear in the game. For the first run I ran hard from the 1st lap while on run 2 I attempted to save my tires early to compare lap average to see which would be faster overall.
Run One Run Two
28.18 29.55
28.88 29.05
29.32 29.47
30.38 29.45
30.78 30.00
31.52 30.38
31.35 30.55
31.48 30.60
31.57 31.25
Avg Avg
30.52 30.14
As you can you see it doesn't take long for the aggressive approach of run 1 to produce slower lap times, by lap 4 the times are already slower resulting in a much slower average over 10 laps. To counter this, the slight slower starting pace of run 2 resulted in achieving a faster average. All I did was back off earlier, take less speed through the corner and smooth out my driving, making less aggressive inputs and less corrections. It really is that simple, OK maybe it does take a lot of practice as you have to go against your natural methods of just driving as fast as possible, but once you get your head around that, it's quite straight forward. Also your driving style may just be hard on tires, many real life drivers struggle to make tires last compared to their rivals.
The next step is adjusting the setup. The ideal setup for a race is one that doesn't wear out the right front tire or the right rear tire as these tires are the most important for the balance of the race car. To avoid wearing out the right front tire causing extreme understeer, you'll need to make the car turn more, while if you’re burning the right rear tire you'll need to create some understeer by reducing the amount the car turns in the corner.
Richard Towler: The first advice I always give is don't be greedy, treat your tires like a limited resource. If you drive hard for the first 5 laps you won't have any tire left when you do need them later in a run. Of course if you only have a 5 lap run to the end of the race, just put your foot down and hold on tight!
The easiest and most simple way to save tires is to drive slower, lift off a little earlier into the corner, wait a little longer before hitting the throttle and just drive a bit smoother. Now you may be think it's a race why go slower? It's not just about maintaining a one lap speed, you have to think of each stint as a time trial. The first lap you run is just as important as the lap you run on lap 30. The best way to practice this is to work on a 10 lap average using the in game session stats, keep going back to try and improve your average rather than single lap pace.
Let's take these two, 10 lap, runs from Atlanta, the most extreme case of tire wear in the game. For the first run I ran hard from the 1st lap while on run 2 I attempted to save my tires early to compare lap average to see which would be faster overall.
Run One Run Two
28.18 29.55
28.88 29.05
29.32 29.47
30.38 29.45
30.78 30.00
31.52 30.38
31.35 30.55
31.48 30.60
31.57 31.25
Avg Avg
30.52 30.14
As you can you see it doesn't take long for the aggressive approach of run 1 to produce slower lap times, by lap 4 the times are already slower resulting in a much slower average over 10 laps. To counter this, the slight slower starting pace of run 2 resulted in achieving a faster average. All I did was back off earlier, take less speed through the corner and smooth out my driving, making less aggressive inputs and less corrections. It really is that simple, OK maybe it does take a lot of practice as you have to go against your natural methods of just driving as fast as possible, but once you get your head around that, it's quite straight forward. Also your driving style may just be hard on tires, many real life drivers struggle to make tires last compared to their rivals.
The next step is adjusting the setup. The ideal setup for a race is one that doesn't wear out the right front tire or the right rear tire as these tires are the most important for the balance of the race car. To avoid wearing out the right front tire causing extreme understeer, you'll need to make the car turn more, while if you’re burning the right rear tire you'll need to create some understeer by reducing the amount the car turns in the corner.
Race Strategy
So after learning how to manages tire wear. the next step is to learned how to apply this into a race strategy and take home the victory trophy.
A bad strategy can often lead to the fastest guy not claiming victory because the team, or driver, made the decision to pit or not pit at the wrong time. Now the simple truth is you can't really plan strategy before a race, you can only set yourself a basic guideline to follow. You can't predict when the cautions will fall, how hard you have to drive at certain points in the race or who you will be competing against for victory.
When I'm racing I have a basic set of rules I follow depending on the tire wear of each track. For the tracks that have a minimal amount of fall off like Dover, the amount of time l spend on the same set of tires increases, while at tracks like Atlanta l will want to come in after 5 laps to put a new set of tires on regardless of track position. It has to be said that generally the choices I make are based on shorter runs between cautions, as when I've run through about 1/3rd of my fuel tank l will always take 4 tires and a fill up during the main part of a race. As a general rule this nearly always works, it's only when you're planning the end of the race, or cautions are called close to each other, that strategy really plays a part - unless you're willing to take a gamble to gain track position.
Once you understand the fall off at each track, how it will affect your performance after a restart compared to drivers that have chosen to pit, then we think about the next step - understanding how track position will affect you. This isn't as simple as thinking you're fine if you drop to 8th at this track or 12th at this track, it all depends on understanding your competition, how strong or weak the field is. In some fields I wouldn't really mind falling back to last with fresh tires as I know within a certain amount of laps I could get back to the front, but in other races I'd be worried about pitting and coming out in 5th or 6th as by the time I caught the leader I might of already used up my tire advantage.
Another part of the strategy game is deciding what you're going to do on your pit stop, change tires, how many, how much fuel, what setup changes to make, etc. We'll be taking a look at setup changes during a race in another article but let's look at tires and fuel this time around. The choice between two or four tires is fairly simple in most cases, if you need a full tank of fuel always take four, but if less than half a tank of fuel is needed the option to take just two tires is there. Taking two tires work great for shorter runs, you'll get track position and as long as it doesn't go green too long after you've pitted, it will generally work out to be the better option. However, if the race does stay green you would have been better off taking four tires.
My last piece of advice is that it will feel like you never win the strategy game if you're the person dominating the race, everyone will just do what you don't. If you pit more people will stay out, and if you don't pit everyone else will pit as the race will be about beating you. So don't be upset if you strategy doesn't work out all the time, I've been in many situations were no matter what I did I was going to lose and that's just the nature of racing. Never give up and try to make the most out of every situation.
Now let's take two situations and focus on how you might approach them at two completely different tracks.
Scenario 1: Atlanta 20 lap race, you start 5th and are 10th by the first caution which comes out on lap 10.
Now let's look at the challenges of this race. Very high tire wear means by lap 10 your tires are going to be 2 or 3 seconds slower. This increases the chances of everyone pitting, but of course there will be a few people who will take the chance and stay out, which could cause trouble on the restart. What do you do?
If you stay out on lap 10, chances are you won't win the race from here on the restart. With so few laps remaining depending how many people in front pitted, you'll also get passed pretty quickly by the people who do pit while you're fighting for positions on the restart. So pit, take 4 tires and hope the race goes green, which would be my play.
So what happens if you're in 30th place? If you pit, you are likely to finish around 30th anyway, so why not stay out and take the gamble? You can always gamble on cautions taking some of the remaining racing distance away and you could get lucky with a top 10, even at a track like Atlanta. It all depends on track position and how much you're willing to gamble.
Scenario 2: Bristol, 50 lap race, you start 5th and are 10th by the first caution which comes out on lap 25.
Bristol is a very different beast to Atlanta, tire wear is much less and it's much harder to make passes. So when the car in front sticks to the high line, the choice to pit for fresh tires is a much harder choice to make, as regaining ground isn't as easy. The chances of late race cautions also massively increase with the tight race track at Bristol, so the balance switches to staying out rather than pitting more so with decent track position. If you are confident of holding people off who do pit, stay out and go for it. If you do decide to pit, this is a great opportunity to take two tires. You will always come out of the pits at the same point you entered, as far as the people who pitted go, but it does mean you'll be slower than the people who took four tires. The advantage is that you will have the track position and the speed on everyone in front of you.
Generally, to throw in an alternative option, I would stay out with two tires in this situation and would only pit if a high number of other drivers do.
So now you know why it sometimes gets heated between a driver and crew chief when pit stops are coming up.
A bad strategy can often lead to the fastest guy not claiming victory because the team, or driver, made the decision to pit or not pit at the wrong time. Now the simple truth is you can't really plan strategy before a race, you can only set yourself a basic guideline to follow. You can't predict when the cautions will fall, how hard you have to drive at certain points in the race or who you will be competing against for victory.
When I'm racing I have a basic set of rules I follow depending on the tire wear of each track. For the tracks that have a minimal amount of fall off like Dover, the amount of time l spend on the same set of tires increases, while at tracks like Atlanta l will want to come in after 5 laps to put a new set of tires on regardless of track position. It has to be said that generally the choices I make are based on shorter runs between cautions, as when I've run through about 1/3rd of my fuel tank l will always take 4 tires and a fill up during the main part of a race. As a general rule this nearly always works, it's only when you're planning the end of the race, or cautions are called close to each other, that strategy really plays a part - unless you're willing to take a gamble to gain track position.
Once you understand the fall off at each track, how it will affect your performance after a restart compared to drivers that have chosen to pit, then we think about the next step - understanding how track position will affect you. This isn't as simple as thinking you're fine if you drop to 8th at this track or 12th at this track, it all depends on understanding your competition, how strong or weak the field is. In some fields I wouldn't really mind falling back to last with fresh tires as I know within a certain amount of laps I could get back to the front, but in other races I'd be worried about pitting and coming out in 5th or 6th as by the time I caught the leader I might of already used up my tire advantage.
Another part of the strategy game is deciding what you're going to do on your pit stop, change tires, how many, how much fuel, what setup changes to make, etc. We'll be taking a look at setup changes during a race in another article but let's look at tires and fuel this time around. The choice between two or four tires is fairly simple in most cases, if you need a full tank of fuel always take four, but if less than half a tank of fuel is needed the option to take just two tires is there. Taking two tires work great for shorter runs, you'll get track position and as long as it doesn't go green too long after you've pitted, it will generally work out to be the better option. However, if the race does stay green you would have been better off taking four tires.
My last piece of advice is that it will feel like you never win the strategy game if you're the person dominating the race, everyone will just do what you don't. If you pit more people will stay out, and if you don't pit everyone else will pit as the race will be about beating you. So don't be upset if you strategy doesn't work out all the time, I've been in many situations were no matter what I did I was going to lose and that's just the nature of racing. Never give up and try to make the most out of every situation.
Now let's take two situations and focus on how you might approach them at two completely different tracks.
Scenario 1: Atlanta 20 lap race, you start 5th and are 10th by the first caution which comes out on lap 10.
Now let's look at the challenges of this race. Very high tire wear means by lap 10 your tires are going to be 2 or 3 seconds slower. This increases the chances of everyone pitting, but of course there will be a few people who will take the chance and stay out, which could cause trouble on the restart. What do you do?
If you stay out on lap 10, chances are you won't win the race from here on the restart. With so few laps remaining depending how many people in front pitted, you'll also get passed pretty quickly by the people who do pit while you're fighting for positions on the restart. So pit, take 4 tires and hope the race goes green, which would be my play.
So what happens if you're in 30th place? If you pit, you are likely to finish around 30th anyway, so why not stay out and take the gamble? You can always gamble on cautions taking some of the remaining racing distance away and you could get lucky with a top 10, even at a track like Atlanta. It all depends on track position and how much you're willing to gamble.
Scenario 2: Bristol, 50 lap race, you start 5th and are 10th by the first caution which comes out on lap 25.
Bristol is a very different beast to Atlanta, tire wear is much less and it's much harder to make passes. So when the car in front sticks to the high line, the choice to pit for fresh tires is a much harder choice to make, as regaining ground isn't as easy. The chances of late race cautions also massively increase with the tight race track at Bristol, so the balance switches to staying out rather than pitting more so with decent track position. If you are confident of holding people off who do pit, stay out and go for it. If you do decide to pit, this is a great opportunity to take two tires. You will always come out of the pits at the same point you entered, as far as the people who pitted go, but it does mean you'll be slower than the people who took four tires. The advantage is that you will have the track position and the speed on everyone in front of you.
Generally, to throw in an alternative option, I would stay out with two tires in this situation and would only pit if a high number of other drivers do.
So now you know why it sometimes gets heated between a driver and crew chief when pit stops are coming up.
Drafting, Bump Drafting, Tango
This week's topic are all about aerodynamics from drafting a car in front to pushing another car all the way around a race track. Read on to find out more.... Richard Towler is this week discussing the craft of drafting, bump drafting and the two car tango, how to use them tactically and pointing out the dangers involved.Let's start with the easy part, drafting. In a corner on all tracks beside Daytona and Talladega the car behind will always be slower as it has less downforce, but on the straight the reduced drag on your body will allow you to get a run on the car in front allowing you to attempt an overtaking move. The closer you are to the car in front the more draft you receive, also the more central you are to the car in front the more draft you'll receive.The key to making these moves comes in trying to get a run out of the corner while behind another car. The best way to do this is to take a different line to the car in front. Get out of their dirty air in the corner as much as possible and exploit the draft as much as possible down the straight. Another advantage of not running in the dirty air is the engine runs cooler, allowing you to run more tape, the tires also take less of a beating.Another aspect of drafting is side draft, this is mostly effective as an overtaking method to reduce the speed of the car in front by placing your front quarter panel next to the rear quarter panel of the car in front. This will increase drag on their car as it disturbs the air flow, giving you an even greater chance of clearing them into the corner.
Next on the list is bump drafting, this is when you get a run on the car and instead of overtaking, you push the car in front so both of you go around a track faster for a moment. When bump drafting you always want to hit the car as square as possible and within a few mph speed difference, otherwise you run the risk of spinning out the car in front and wrecking yourself in the process. For most tracks I'd only bump draft if you're not interested in over taking, but at tracks like Daytona and Talladega, you can use this technique all the way around the track to consistently increase overall lap time.Taking bump drafting one step further is the two car tango. This is when two cars 'connect' and push each other around the race track resulting in a massive speed increase for both cars. Unlike bump drafting you want to slowly creep up to the car in front and connect, sometimes it's better for the car in front to drag his brake while you connect, but it can be done by just slowly drafting and connecting your front bumper to their rear bumper. To keep the tango going you have to stay in the same place behind the car, moving around from side to side will often break the tango apart. Another danger is overheating, when connecting the two cars, cooling to the car behind it cut off, and after several laps you will have to back off to make sure your engine doesn't suffer damage or even blow up. So timing for using this tactic is crucial, you have to scan the field and know when to make a run.
Like all aspects of driving pulling these tactics off to a high level requires a lot of practice. I'd always recommend joining a practice session with your friends and trying them out, get all the errors and mistakes out of the way when it doesn't matter. When your confident, take them to the races and show people who's boss!
Next on the list is bump drafting, this is when you get a run on the car and instead of overtaking, you push the car in front so both of you go around a track faster for a moment. When bump drafting you always want to hit the car as square as possible and within a few mph speed difference, otherwise you run the risk of spinning out the car in front and wrecking yourself in the process. For most tracks I'd only bump draft if you're not interested in over taking, but at tracks like Daytona and Talladega, you can use this technique all the way around the track to consistently increase overall lap time.Taking bump drafting one step further is the two car tango. This is when two cars 'connect' and push each other around the race track resulting in a massive speed increase for both cars. Unlike bump drafting you want to slowly creep up to the car in front and connect, sometimes it's better for the car in front to drag his brake while you connect, but it can be done by just slowly drafting and connecting your front bumper to their rear bumper. To keep the tango going you have to stay in the same place behind the car, moving around from side to side will often break the tango apart. Another danger is overheating, when connecting the two cars, cooling to the car behind it cut off, and after several laps you will have to back off to make sure your engine doesn't suffer damage or even blow up. So timing for using this tactic is crucial, you have to scan the field and know when to make a run.
Like all aspects of driving pulling these tactics off to a high level requires a lot of practice. I'd always recommend joining a practice session with your friends and trying them out, get all the errors and mistakes out of the way when it doesn't matter. When your confident, take them to the races and show people who's boss!
Basic Setup Adjustments
In this addition of NASCAR The Game: Inside Line tips and tricks, Richard will be giving you tips on making setup adjustments while in a race.
So you've entered a race and you're not happy with your setup. You don't have the option of going back to the garage to make changes to the entire car, so what options are available? During a pit stop we allow you to make multiple adjustments to the car that real teams make almost every pit stop, these include tire pressures, wedge, track bar, and tape.
The question now is what do you change, as always with any setup adjustments depend on what else you're doing. The changes you need when taking two tires are different to when you're taking four, the same goes for the amount of fuel you take and even how many drivers are left in the race.
Tire pressure changes would be the easiest way to change a cars performance without actually adjusting the chassis. Ideally if you want a long run pace you'll need to run lower tire pressures to start with, but if you want the car to be ready right after a restart to go on to achieve the fastest lap time, you'll want to raise the pressures. Lower pressures will make the car looser and more difficult to drive after a restart, so be careful if you decide to make this adjustment as you don't want to be self spinning in front of the entire field.
Next up is wedge. Wedge should only really be adjusted if you're looking for a short term gain, for example, if you've compromised on the setup for the long run and you have a short 10 to 20 lap run to the end. Wedge can also be reduced if you're taking less than a full tank on the pit stop, the less weight you have in the back the tighter the car will be, reducing the wedge will compensate for this and put more speed into the car.
Track bar goes into the same area as wedge, I'd normally use track bar over wedge to balance out a short run or low fuel. It's mostly just personal preference as I prefer the feel of a higher track bar setting compared to a lower wedge setting. For every gallon of fuel less I'd put in the car I would either run 1% less wedge or increase the track bar by half an inch.
Final adjustment is the tape. It's really simple, just run as much tape as possible, the general rule is you can run 5% more tape if you're out front than you can in traffic. Just be careful when taking this risk, as if you lose the lead on a restart chances are you will suffer the negative effects of an overheating engine sooner rather than later.
One adjustment we haven't covered is brake bias and this is because we allow you to adjust this within a certain range while you're driving. This comes in handy when you either want to loosen or tighten the car up on entry. If your loose on entry you'll need to increase the brake bias and if your tight on entry lower the brake bias.
Well that's it for this week, it should give you a competitive edge in the races just when your rivals think they have you figured. That final bit of speed should allow you to take the win away.
So you've entered a race and you're not happy with your setup. You don't have the option of going back to the garage to make changes to the entire car, so what options are available? During a pit stop we allow you to make multiple adjustments to the car that real teams make almost every pit stop, these include tire pressures, wedge, track bar, and tape.
The question now is what do you change, as always with any setup adjustments depend on what else you're doing. The changes you need when taking two tires are different to when you're taking four, the same goes for the amount of fuel you take and even how many drivers are left in the race.
Tire pressure changes would be the easiest way to change a cars performance without actually adjusting the chassis. Ideally if you want a long run pace you'll need to run lower tire pressures to start with, but if you want the car to be ready right after a restart to go on to achieve the fastest lap time, you'll want to raise the pressures. Lower pressures will make the car looser and more difficult to drive after a restart, so be careful if you decide to make this adjustment as you don't want to be self spinning in front of the entire field.
Next up is wedge. Wedge should only really be adjusted if you're looking for a short term gain, for example, if you've compromised on the setup for the long run and you have a short 10 to 20 lap run to the end. Wedge can also be reduced if you're taking less than a full tank on the pit stop, the less weight you have in the back the tighter the car will be, reducing the wedge will compensate for this and put more speed into the car.
Track bar goes into the same area as wedge, I'd normally use track bar over wedge to balance out a short run or low fuel. It's mostly just personal preference as I prefer the feel of a higher track bar setting compared to a lower wedge setting. For every gallon of fuel less I'd put in the car I would either run 1% less wedge or increase the track bar by half an inch.
Final adjustment is the tape. It's really simple, just run as much tape as possible, the general rule is you can run 5% more tape if you're out front than you can in traffic. Just be careful when taking this risk, as if you lose the lead on a restart chances are you will suffer the negative effects of an overheating engine sooner rather than later.
One adjustment we haven't covered is brake bias and this is because we allow you to adjust this within a certain range while you're driving. This comes in handy when you either want to loosen or tighten the car up on entry. If your loose on entry you'll need to increase the brake bias and if your tight on entry lower the brake bias.
Well that's it for this week, it should give you a competitive edge in the races just when your rivals think they have you figured. That final bit of speed should allow you to take the win away.
Steering Wheel Set-up Guide
If you're looking for some tips on how to set-up your steering wheel in NTG:IL we've created a mini guide to show you where to go to do this.
To access the set-up to configure your steer wheel, firstly ensure your steering wheel is connected to your console before powering up. Once connected navigate to the main menu of NASCAR The Game: Inside Line.Once at the main screen, scroll to 'My NASCAR' and the 'Options' tab: Next go to 'Controls': Once landing on the 'controls' screen use the buttons indicated in this screen (see image below) to navigate left and right in the menus: Scroll along (left or right) to 'Advanced Settings' and set-up your wheel as desired: If you are using the Forza Motorsport CSR Elite Wheel, try using this guide:Xbox 360(The wheel communicates wirelessly with the Xbox 360 console and does not need a cable or dongle)1. Power on both devices.2. After self calibration press and hold Xbox 360 Guide Button for one second or press and hold Start Button for one second.3. The Xbox 360 Guide Button will illuminate the controller slot you are connected to. If you use the wheel for the first time, the CSR Elite must be synced to the Xbox 360 like any other wireless device. Xbox 360 button layout: PlayStation 31. Connect the USB cable to a free slot on your PlayStation 3 console and to the connector on the left side of your wheel.2. After the self calibration enter the PC mode by pressing Back Button for one second "- - -" will disappear on the display.3. Press Connect Button + Back Button simultaneously. A dot in teh display indicates the PS3 mode.4. PlayStation 3 and CSR Elite are connected. PlayStation 3 button layout:With the tuning feature you can fine tune your wheel setting independent from the game or platform, even during gameplay, directly on the wheel. You can adjust the strength of force feedback and vibration as well as the best sensitivity for your racing style/ Additionally you can enable 'Drift Mode', the ABS vibration feature and permanently save five 'pre-sets' in the memort of the wheel. To do this follow these steps:1. Press the 'Tuning button'2. The currently active pre-set will appear, indicated by S_1 thru S_5. You can save up to five pre-sets on your wheel. 3. Select your pre-set by using the up and down arrows on the D-Joystick4. To select a function, press left to right on the D-Joystick5. To change the setting of the respective function press Up or Down on the D-Joystick6. When finished, press the "tuning“ button to save your pre-set Our recommended settings for NASCAR The Game: Inside Line are:SEN (Sensitivity): 320FFB (Force Feedback): 100SHO (Shock Vibration): 100DRI (Drift Mode): OFFABS (ABS Vibration): 100LIN (Linearity Setting): 100DEA (Dead Zone Setting): 0SPR (Srping Setting): -1DPR (Damper Setting): 0ACL: OFF
All info. above is directly from http://nascarthegame.com/
and a SPECIAL THANX to them from all the TRUE ONLINE RACE FANS for putting out this game with so many online problems,
great job on the setup info. though!
To access the set-up to configure your steer wheel, firstly ensure your steering wheel is connected to your console before powering up. Once connected navigate to the main menu of NASCAR The Game: Inside Line.Once at the main screen, scroll to 'My NASCAR' and the 'Options' tab: Next go to 'Controls': Once landing on the 'controls' screen use the buttons indicated in this screen (see image below) to navigate left and right in the menus: Scroll along (left or right) to 'Advanced Settings' and set-up your wheel as desired: If you are using the Forza Motorsport CSR Elite Wheel, try using this guide:Xbox 360(The wheel communicates wirelessly with the Xbox 360 console and does not need a cable or dongle)1. Power on both devices.2. After self calibration press and hold Xbox 360 Guide Button for one second or press and hold Start Button for one second.3. The Xbox 360 Guide Button will illuminate the controller slot you are connected to. If you use the wheel for the first time, the CSR Elite must be synced to the Xbox 360 like any other wireless device. Xbox 360 button layout: PlayStation 31. Connect the USB cable to a free slot on your PlayStation 3 console and to the connector on the left side of your wheel.2. After the self calibration enter the PC mode by pressing Back Button for one second "- - -" will disappear on the display.3. Press Connect Button + Back Button simultaneously. A dot in teh display indicates the PS3 mode.4. PlayStation 3 and CSR Elite are connected. PlayStation 3 button layout:With the tuning feature you can fine tune your wheel setting independent from the game or platform, even during gameplay, directly on the wheel. You can adjust the strength of force feedback and vibration as well as the best sensitivity for your racing style/ Additionally you can enable 'Drift Mode', the ABS vibration feature and permanently save five 'pre-sets' in the memort of the wheel. To do this follow these steps:1. Press the 'Tuning button'2. The currently active pre-set will appear, indicated by S_1 thru S_5. You can save up to five pre-sets on your wheel. 3. Select your pre-set by using the up and down arrows on the D-Joystick4. To select a function, press left to right on the D-Joystick5. To change the setting of the respective function press Up or Down on the D-Joystick6. When finished, press the "tuning“ button to save your pre-set Our recommended settings for NASCAR The Game: Inside Line are:SEN (Sensitivity): 320FFB (Force Feedback): 100SHO (Shock Vibration): 100DRI (Drift Mode): OFFABS (ABS Vibration): 100LIN (Linearity Setting): 100DEA (Dead Zone Setting): 0SPR (Srping Setting): -1DPR (Damper Setting): 0ACL: OFF
All info. above is directly from http://nascarthegame.com/
and a SPECIAL THANX to them from all the TRUE ONLINE RACE FANS for putting out this game with so many online problems,
great job on the setup info. though!
Below are setups and info. found online for the 2011 game.
Before attempting any chassis adjustments it is important for you as a driver to know & understand what your car is doing on the track. The only way to understand how your car is reacting is through playing time. The more laps you turn, or practice you get; the better off you will be in deciding what your trouble points are on the track.
Learn how to hit the same line lap after lap with the default setups packaged with NASCAR Racing before attempting any other adjustments. The biggest mistake rookie drivers make, are trying to adjust a chassis for what they believe is an ill handling car.
CAR SETUP & ADJUSTMENT GUIDE
SUSPENSION
Bump- You apply Bump to make the car looser or to make the car Tighter coming into the corners. What this means is, The Higher you go on the Bump, The looser The car will be on that side(LF,RF,LR,RR)The lower you go on the Bump, The tighter that side of the car will be! You usually want a lot Of Bump on Flat Short Tracks to help you turn better! At the front, a lower number (softer shock compression) loosens the car during the transition to braking, and at the rear, softer shock compression tightens the car during the transition to throttle. Higher numbers (stiffer shock compression) give quicker reactions during these transitions, and the opposite effects.
Rebound- Unlike Bump, Rebound will tighten/Loosen you up exiting the
Corners. What this means is, the higher you go on the rebound the tighter
the Car will be exiting and the lower you go on the Rebound the looser
the car will be exiting. You usually need around 2-4 Rebound on The big
Super Speedways. At the front, a lower number (softer shock rebound) loosens the car during the transition to throttle, and at the rear, softer shock rebound tightens the car during the transition to braking. Higher numbers (stiffer shock rebound) give quicker reactions during the transitions, and the opposite effects.
Shocks General
Raise R/F Tighter off the corner.
Lower R/F Looser off the corner.
Raise R/R Looser from the middle and off the corner.
Lower R/R Tighter from the middle and off the corner.
Raise L/F Also tighter from the middle off.
Lower L/F Looser into corners if done in combination with raising r/r.
Raise L/R Looser in and off corner.
Lower L/R Tightens car up off corners.
Springs-This is how the weight is distributed on the car! The Lower you
go on springs the looser that side will be! And the opposite for Higher
springs, will make the car tighter. For Example: Default RF Spring is 1100. To loosen the RF go down on the spring to 1000. You want The Front Springs To be around 2000-2200 on the Super speedways. Softer front springs usually loosen the car (turns better), while softer rear springs tighten it (less likely to spin). Use the softest springs you can without letting the car scrape the ground. If the car rolls too much, stiffen the sway bars.
Raise R/R Loosens car into corners.
Lower R/R Tightens car off corner.
Raise L/R Tightens car off corner.
Lower L/R Loosens car in the middle and off corner.
Ride Height-This will raise The Car up and down for you. Too low of a
ride height will create drag for that side and will bottom out in the
corners. What this means is, the Front End Of the Car will hit the surface of the track and will send you up the race track and you cant get back on the gas Fast Enough! Track Bar-This Feature can help you turn coming into the corners like
bump, but for the rear of the Car. What this means is, if your Rear End is
too tight coming into the corner then you usually want to add trackbar
to the RR to loosen the car up and make it turn better.
Front Sway Bar-Stiffening the front sway bar (larger diameter) tightens the car and reduces body roll when cornering, which can give better control over the tire camber during cornering. Too stiff a bar can lift a front wheel off the track when cornering. (The lower you go with this, the better you turn in the corners, but also makes you looser! The Higher you go with this, the tighter you make the front end in the turns!)
Rear Sway Bar-Stiffening the rear sway bar (larger diameter) loosens the car and reduces body roll when cornering.
TIRE SECTION
Tire psi. - For more grip take out some air, To loosen your Right side up and make it turn better, take air out of the Right Front. You usually want your tire pressures high at The Super Speedways and Equal on the Road Courses around 21. You want to keep the left side tires at lower pressures than the right side tires to help you corner in the turns on all the oval tracks. Does not apply at road courses.
Tire Pressures-Lower tire pressures result in a more forgiving car, and result in higher tire temperatures. Higher pressures allow higher top speeds with less temperature buildup. Going higher than recommended can result in more speed at a high-speed track, but the loss in grip can hurt at slower tracks.
Settings
Raise R/F Loosens car off the corner.
Lower R/F Tightens car up
Raise R/R Tighter into corner looser off
Lower R/R Looser on short runs, as heat builds tightens up. (Think of those long runs)
Raise L/F Tightens car up into and off the corner.
Lower L/F Looser off the corners.
Raise L/R Looser off the corners but tighter in the middle.
Lower L/R Looser at start but tightens up on long runs.
Camber-Some positive left side and negative right side camber will help the car turn left. Too much camber will reduce grip and increase tire wear. Negative RF Camber will make the car Push to the Left. Positive Camber In the LF will push the car more to the Right. Usually the LR should Be 1.8 and The RR should be -1.8 Negative equal cambers on both sides are usually best on a road coarse.
Caster-This Will loosen you up through the entire corner. Move this higher to help you turn in the corners. However, Too much caster will make you spin out and loose precious time & speed!
Front Toe In -This will loosen the Front End of the Car Up and
increase Cornering Speed if you put it more to the negative side. Put
near 1/8 and it will make your car tight coming in the corner and you
will loose some speed!
Rear Toe In-The Lower you go with the Rear Toe In, the more grip you will have in the corners but will also make you a tad bit loose!
WEIGHT
Front Weight Bias-Shifting weight to the front (a higher front bias) can help the car turn in better, but may give more mid-corner push. Shifting weight back can stabilize the car at turn entry, but may loosen in mid-corner. More Front Bias Tightens the chassis entering a corner under braking. Adjusting Front Bias will affect Wedge.
Left Weight Bias-On an oval, use the maximum left weight allowed. On road courses, it’s usually best to keep the weight equal on the left and right sides. More Left Bias loosens the chassis when making left-hand turns. Adjusting Left Bias will affect Wedge.
Wedge-Less wedge will loosen the car, allowing it to turn better. More wedge tightens the car, and can help in putting the power down. On a road course, use 50% wedge to keep the car from pulling to the left or right under power.
GEAR RATIOS
Gear ratios are very important for Maximum speed or Great Acceleration!
The Lower the Gears, the less RPM'S, but more Top Speed!
The Higher The Gears, The More RPM'S, but More Acceleration! You normally want a High Gear Ratio Differential, for tracks 1 mile or smaller.
On the 1.5 mile tracks, the Default Gear ratios are usually good
On Super speedways you want a Lower Gear Ratio Differential. 1st, 2nd, & 3rd gears are used mainly for accelerating out of the pits & accelerating on restarts at Superspeedways and intermediates. If you are having trouble with spinning out on either of these occasions, it might be wise to lower these a little so your car isn't so squirrely on acceleration out of the pits or on restarts.
Final Gear Ratio-The final gear ratio is used to adjust all four gears together. A smaller ratio allows for higher top speeds, but produces less torque at the rear wheels, so it will take longer to reach top speed.
Transmission gear ratios-Allows each gear to be individually adjusted. A smaller ratio allows for higher top speeds, but produces less torque at the rear wheels, so it takes longer to reach top speed.
DON’T FORGET, once you set the individual gear ratio, it will act accordingly to a change in the final gear ratio.
You should also note that changing your 4th gear up or down can also change the way your car handles! Example: Say you have your car handling great with certain gear ratios, but is maxing out in the end of the straights. So you decide to move down the final & 4th gears a little. Making these changes may either tighten the car up a bit, or make it even better! It really depends on how you like the car to handle. However, if you do move the final differential down a little, most of the time you end up moving 4th up a notch or 2. When moving 4th up or down, it's also important to pay attention to the number after the slash. This number coincides with your final gear ratio. Say you are running with a final of 3.33:1 & 4th gear is 1.09/3.64 The number after the slash (3.64) is actually the same as if your final was set at 3.64:1 & 4th gear is set at 1.00/3.64, although your final would never be set at 3.64:1 because in the game it never goes to that number, but this was just an example.
AERO DYNAMICS
This is very important for Maximum Speed, especially at super speedways!
Splitter-The higher The Splitter, the Looser the Front End, but a Better
chance the Car wont Bottom out. The Lower The Splitter, the tighter you
will be, but a good chance the Car will bottom out. On Super speedways
you want the Splitter in a range of 4.00-4.50
Grille Tape-This gives your car the extra downforce you have been
looking for and will loosen the car up. When Qualifying you should have
Tape On 100% But at race time make sure you have your tape at a percentage the engine can handle! Too much tape at a race with wear on could cause your water & Oil temps to soar & in turn could blow the engine! See tape percentages below:
Race Trim Grille Tape Percentages
Short Tracks-0%-40%
Intermediates -40%-50%
Super Speedways -75%-85%
Road Courses -0%-15%
Rear Wing -The Lower the Rear Wing The More Downforce, But The Rear end will be a lot looser! You want this as low as it will let you go at the Superspeedways (10)!
This car setup and adjustment giude is thanks to rocket442 at http://rockit442carsetups.webs.com/apps/blog/
Learn how to hit the same line lap after lap with the default setups packaged with NASCAR Racing before attempting any other adjustments. The biggest mistake rookie drivers make, are trying to adjust a chassis for what they believe is an ill handling car.
CAR SETUP & ADJUSTMENT GUIDE
SUSPENSION
Bump- You apply Bump to make the car looser or to make the car Tighter coming into the corners. What this means is, The Higher you go on the Bump, The looser The car will be on that side(LF,RF,LR,RR)The lower you go on the Bump, The tighter that side of the car will be! You usually want a lot Of Bump on Flat Short Tracks to help you turn better! At the front, a lower number (softer shock compression) loosens the car during the transition to braking, and at the rear, softer shock compression tightens the car during the transition to throttle. Higher numbers (stiffer shock compression) give quicker reactions during these transitions, and the opposite effects.
Rebound- Unlike Bump, Rebound will tighten/Loosen you up exiting the
Corners. What this means is, the higher you go on the rebound the tighter
the Car will be exiting and the lower you go on the Rebound the looser
the car will be exiting. You usually need around 2-4 Rebound on The big
Super Speedways. At the front, a lower number (softer shock rebound) loosens the car during the transition to throttle, and at the rear, softer shock rebound tightens the car during the transition to braking. Higher numbers (stiffer shock rebound) give quicker reactions during the transitions, and the opposite effects.
Shocks General
Raise R/F Tighter off the corner.
Lower R/F Looser off the corner.
Raise R/R Looser from the middle and off the corner.
Lower R/R Tighter from the middle and off the corner.
Raise L/F Also tighter from the middle off.
Lower L/F Looser into corners if done in combination with raising r/r.
Raise L/R Looser in and off corner.
Lower L/R Tightens car up off corners.
Springs-This is how the weight is distributed on the car! The Lower you
go on springs the looser that side will be! And the opposite for Higher
springs, will make the car tighter. For Example: Default RF Spring is 1100. To loosen the RF go down on the spring to 1000. You want The Front Springs To be around 2000-2200 on the Super speedways. Softer front springs usually loosen the car (turns better), while softer rear springs tighten it (less likely to spin). Use the softest springs you can without letting the car scrape the ground. If the car rolls too much, stiffen the sway bars.
Raise R/R Loosens car into corners.
Lower R/R Tightens car off corner.
Raise L/R Tightens car off corner.
Lower L/R Loosens car in the middle and off corner.
Ride Height-This will raise The Car up and down for you. Too low of a
ride height will create drag for that side and will bottom out in the
corners. What this means is, the Front End Of the Car will hit the surface of the track and will send you up the race track and you cant get back on the gas Fast Enough! Track Bar-This Feature can help you turn coming into the corners like
bump, but for the rear of the Car. What this means is, if your Rear End is
too tight coming into the corner then you usually want to add trackbar
to the RR to loosen the car up and make it turn better.
Front Sway Bar-Stiffening the front sway bar (larger diameter) tightens the car and reduces body roll when cornering, which can give better control over the tire camber during cornering. Too stiff a bar can lift a front wheel off the track when cornering. (The lower you go with this, the better you turn in the corners, but also makes you looser! The Higher you go with this, the tighter you make the front end in the turns!)
Rear Sway Bar-Stiffening the rear sway bar (larger diameter) loosens the car and reduces body roll when cornering.
TIRE SECTION
Tire psi. - For more grip take out some air, To loosen your Right side up and make it turn better, take air out of the Right Front. You usually want your tire pressures high at The Super Speedways and Equal on the Road Courses around 21. You want to keep the left side tires at lower pressures than the right side tires to help you corner in the turns on all the oval tracks. Does not apply at road courses.
Tire Pressures-Lower tire pressures result in a more forgiving car, and result in higher tire temperatures. Higher pressures allow higher top speeds with less temperature buildup. Going higher than recommended can result in more speed at a high-speed track, but the loss in grip can hurt at slower tracks.
Settings
Raise R/F Loosens car off the corner.
Lower R/F Tightens car up
Raise R/R Tighter into corner looser off
Lower R/R Looser on short runs, as heat builds tightens up. (Think of those long runs)
Raise L/F Tightens car up into and off the corner.
Lower L/F Looser off the corners.
Raise L/R Looser off the corners but tighter in the middle.
Lower L/R Looser at start but tightens up on long runs.
Camber-Some positive left side and negative right side camber will help the car turn left. Too much camber will reduce grip and increase tire wear. Negative RF Camber will make the car Push to the Left. Positive Camber In the LF will push the car more to the Right. Usually the LR should Be 1.8 and The RR should be -1.8 Negative equal cambers on both sides are usually best on a road coarse.
Caster-This Will loosen you up through the entire corner. Move this higher to help you turn in the corners. However, Too much caster will make you spin out and loose precious time & speed!
Front Toe In -This will loosen the Front End of the Car Up and
increase Cornering Speed if you put it more to the negative side. Put
near 1/8 and it will make your car tight coming in the corner and you
will loose some speed!
Rear Toe In-The Lower you go with the Rear Toe In, the more grip you will have in the corners but will also make you a tad bit loose!
WEIGHT
Front Weight Bias-Shifting weight to the front (a higher front bias) can help the car turn in better, but may give more mid-corner push. Shifting weight back can stabilize the car at turn entry, but may loosen in mid-corner. More Front Bias Tightens the chassis entering a corner under braking. Adjusting Front Bias will affect Wedge.
Left Weight Bias-On an oval, use the maximum left weight allowed. On road courses, it’s usually best to keep the weight equal on the left and right sides. More Left Bias loosens the chassis when making left-hand turns. Adjusting Left Bias will affect Wedge.
Wedge-Less wedge will loosen the car, allowing it to turn better. More wedge tightens the car, and can help in putting the power down. On a road course, use 50% wedge to keep the car from pulling to the left or right under power.
GEAR RATIOS
Gear ratios are very important for Maximum speed or Great Acceleration!
The Lower the Gears, the less RPM'S, but more Top Speed!
The Higher The Gears, The More RPM'S, but More Acceleration! You normally want a High Gear Ratio Differential, for tracks 1 mile or smaller.
On the 1.5 mile tracks, the Default Gear ratios are usually good
On Super speedways you want a Lower Gear Ratio Differential. 1st, 2nd, & 3rd gears are used mainly for accelerating out of the pits & accelerating on restarts at Superspeedways and intermediates. If you are having trouble with spinning out on either of these occasions, it might be wise to lower these a little so your car isn't so squirrely on acceleration out of the pits or on restarts.
Final Gear Ratio-The final gear ratio is used to adjust all four gears together. A smaller ratio allows for higher top speeds, but produces less torque at the rear wheels, so it will take longer to reach top speed.
Transmission gear ratios-Allows each gear to be individually adjusted. A smaller ratio allows for higher top speeds, but produces less torque at the rear wheels, so it takes longer to reach top speed.
DON’T FORGET, once you set the individual gear ratio, it will act accordingly to a change in the final gear ratio.
You should also note that changing your 4th gear up or down can also change the way your car handles! Example: Say you have your car handling great with certain gear ratios, but is maxing out in the end of the straights. So you decide to move down the final & 4th gears a little. Making these changes may either tighten the car up a bit, or make it even better! It really depends on how you like the car to handle. However, if you do move the final differential down a little, most of the time you end up moving 4th up a notch or 2. When moving 4th up or down, it's also important to pay attention to the number after the slash. This number coincides with your final gear ratio. Say you are running with a final of 3.33:1 & 4th gear is 1.09/3.64 The number after the slash (3.64) is actually the same as if your final was set at 3.64:1 & 4th gear is set at 1.00/3.64, although your final would never be set at 3.64:1 because in the game it never goes to that number, but this was just an example.
AERO DYNAMICS
This is very important for Maximum Speed, especially at super speedways!
Splitter-The higher The Splitter, the Looser the Front End, but a Better
chance the Car wont Bottom out. The Lower The Splitter, the tighter you
will be, but a good chance the Car will bottom out. On Super speedways
you want the Splitter in a range of 4.00-4.50
Grille Tape-This gives your car the extra downforce you have been
looking for and will loosen the car up. When Qualifying you should have
Tape On 100% But at race time make sure you have your tape at a percentage the engine can handle! Too much tape at a race with wear on could cause your water & Oil temps to soar & in turn could blow the engine! See tape percentages below:
Race Trim Grille Tape Percentages
Short Tracks-0%-40%
Intermediates -40%-50%
Super Speedways -75%-85%
Road Courses -0%-15%
Rear Wing -The Lower the Rear Wing The More Downforce, But The Rear end will be a lot looser! You want this as low as it will let you go at the Superspeedways (10)!
This car setup and adjustment giude is thanks to rocket442 at http://rockit442carsetups.webs.com/apps/blog/
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TEXAS
Front Left: Pressure: 30.0psi Camber: 4.50 Caster: 3.0 Front Right: Pressure: 48.0psi Camber: -0.25 Caster: 4.0 Rear Left: Pressure: 30.0psi Camber: 1.75 Rear Right: Pressure: 43.0 Camber: -1.75 Front Toe Adjustments: Front Toe In: -1/6 Rear Toe Adjustments: L.Rear Toe In: -1/4 R.Rear Toe In: 1/4 Suspension: Front Left: Bump: 24 Rebound: 24 Spring: 450 Ride Height: 6.80" Front Right: Bump: 31 Rebound: 26 Spring: 1050 Ride Height: 6.80" Rear Left: Bump: 22 Rebound: 20 Spring: 425 Ride Height: 8.84" Rear Right: Bump: 20 Rebound: 22 Spring: 825 Ride Height: 8.80" Trackbar: 9.00 Drivetrain and Aero Differential: 3.78/1 1st: 2.94/11.11 2nd: 1.83/6.92 3rd: 1.28/4.84 4th: 1.00/3.78 Brakes: Bias: 70 Steering: Steering Lock: 15.5 Aerodynamics: Tape: 65-70 Front Splitter: 4.50 Balance: Wedge and Bias: Front: 51 Left: 52 Wedge: 51.2 Front and Rear Sway Bar: Front: 1950 Rear: 225 |
MICHIGAN
Front Left: Pressure: 22.0psi Camber: 4.00 Caster: 2.0 Front Right: 46.0psi Camber: -0.50 Caster: 3.0 Rear Left: Pressure: 20.0psi Camber: 1.75 Rear Right: Pressure: 45.0 Camber: -1.75 Front Toe Adjustments: Toe In: -1/8 Rear Toe Adjustments: L.Rear Toe In: -1/4 R.Rear Toe In: 1/4 Suspension: Front Left: Bump: 31 Rebound: 63 Spring: 875 Ride Height: 6.10" Front Right: Bump: 30 Rebound: 60 Spring: 875 Ride Height: 6.30" Rear Left: Bump: 25 Rebound: 39 Spring: 550 Ride Height: 8.83" Rear Right: Bump: 34 Rebound: 54 Spring: 1225 Ride Height: 8.60" Trackbar: 9.50 Drivetrain And Aero: Gearing: Differential: 3.60:1 1st: 2.50/9.00 2nd: 1.72/6.19 3rd: 1.28/4.61 4th: 1.00/3.60 Brakes: Bias: 70% Steering: Lock: 23.5 Aerodynamics: Tape: 65-70 Splitter Balance: Wedge and Bias: Front Bias: 51.5 Left Bias: 52.0 Wedge: 53.0 Front and Rear Sway Bar: Front: 1800 Rear: 275 |
PHOENIX
Front Left: Pressure: 14.0psi Camber: 3.50 Caster 2.0 Front Right: Pressure:32.0psi Camber: -1.25 Caster: 5.5 Rear Left: Pressure: 15.0psi Camber: 1.75 Rear Right: Pressure: 33.0psi Camber: -1.75 Front Toe Adjustments: -1/16" Rear Toe Adjustments: L.Rear Toe In: -3/16 R.Rear Toe In: 3/16 Suspension: Front Left: Bump: 21 Rebound:18 Spring:475 Ride Height: 6.30" Front Right: Bump: 20 Rebound: 18 Spring: 475 Ride Height: 6.10" Rear Left: Bump: 11 Rebound: 17 Spring: 325 Ride Height: 8.55" Rear Right: Bump: 11 Rebound: 15 Spring: 375 Ride Height: 8.80" Track Bar: 7.75 Drivetrain and Aero: Differential: 4.71:1 1st: 2.40/11.30 2nd: 1.80/8.48 3rd: 1.37/6.45 4th: 1.00/4.71 Brakes: Bias: 72.5% Steering: Lock: 17.0 Aerodynamics: Tape: 30% Front Splitter: 2.75 Balance: Wedge & Bias: Front Bias: 50.3 Left: 50.0 Wedge: 48.0 Front and Rear Sway Bar: Front: 2700 Rear: 325 |
POCONOE
Left Front: Pressure: 26.0 PSI Camber: 3.00° Caster: 2.0° Bump: 40 Rebound: 45 Spring: 800 Ride Height: 6.10" Left Rear: Cold Pressure: 26.0 PSI Camber: 1.75° Bump: 23 Rebound: 28 Spring: 300 Ride Height: 8.71" Right Front: Cold Pressure: 36.0 PSI° Camber: -1.00° Caster: 3.0° Bump: 39 Rebound: 43 Spring: 800 Ride Height: 6.30" Right Rear: Cold Pressure: 36.0° Camber: -1.25° Bump: 38 Rebound: 38 Spring: 925 Ride Height: 8.60" Trackbar: 9.00" Toe In: Front: -1/4" Left Rear: -1/4" Right Rear: 1/4" Gears: Differential: 3.72 First: 2.47 Second: 1.69 Third: 1.28 Fourth: 1.00 Brake Bias: 50% Steering Lock: 22.5° Grille Tape: 70% Front Splitter: 4.50" Front Bias: 51.5% Left Bias: 52.0% Wedge: 53.3% Front Sway Bar: 2000 Rear Sway Bar: 600 |
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INDIANAPOLIS
Front Left 18 psi Camber 7.50 Caster 4.0 Rear Left 16 psi Camber 1.75 Right Front 39 psi Camber -4.25 Caster 6.0 Right Rear 35 psi Camber -1.75 Front Toe-In: -1/16 L Rear Toe-In -1/4 R Rear Toe-In 1/4 Suspension Left Front Bump 50 lb Rebound 65lb Spring 380lb Ride Height 5.55 Left Rear Bump 43 lb Rebound 38 lb Spring 400 lb Ride Height 7.50 Right Front Bump 51 lb Rebound 63 lb Spring 470 lb Ride Height 5.55 Right Rear Bump 58 lb Rebound 48 lb Spring 1100 lb Ride Height 7.50 Track Bar 9.50 Drivetrain & Aero Differential Ratio 3.85:1 Brakes 65.0% Steering Lock 16.0 Aerodynamics Grill Tape 70% Front Splitter 4.50 Balance Wedge & Bias Front Bias 50.8% Left Bias 52.0% Wedge 47.0% Front & Rear Sway Bar Front Sway Bar 1800 lb Rear Sway Bar 300 lb |
TALADEGA
35 65 2.0 2.0 4.0 2.0 35 65 1.5 -1.7 -1/4 -1/4 next pg 47 45 93 89 1000 1000 5.50 5.50 21 30 48 47 1075 1075 7.50 7.50 700 next pg 360.1 50.0 21.5 70% 2.00 next page 50.1 3200 51 200 47.7 |
